Seat Tops:

The seat tops are supported by small cleats:
-Position the seat top on the frame
-With a pencil, draw a location line on the sides.

-Epoxy glue the cleats below that line. Masking tape will keep them in place while the epoxy cures.



Coat the cleats with epoxy glue, drop the seat top on the cleats and build a putty fillet all around the seat top.
Fiberglass the seams between the seat tops and the side panels.
The procedure is identical for all the seat tops.
Let's not forget to coat all faces of all parts with epoxy resin before installing them in the boat. Every inch must be saturated with epoxy resin.


In the picture above, note the clamps.
This hull is fitted with an optional clamping board for use with a small outboard: we double the transom plywood above the seat.

The inside fiberglass is now complete.

Rubrail:

Before proceeding to the outside fiberglassing, we will build the rubrail.
The rubrail can be added at this stage or later, after fiberglassing the outside.
The rubrail adds tremendous stiffness and strength to the hull and will make turning the boat over much easier.

We specify a laminated rubrail this means that the rubrail is made of 3 layers of thin plywood epoxy glued on top of each other.
Do not replace it with a solid one piece rubrail. The laminated part is stronger, easier to bend and can be made from scrap plywood.
The rubrail is made of strips of 1/4? plywood, 1-1/2? wide. The length of the plywood doesn't matter: smaller pieces are combined to cover the full length with offset seams between the pieces.


The pictures shows plywood strips for the rubrail, coated with epoxy resin.

You can use staples or clamps to glue the plywood strips.




Note the home made clamps cut from a 3? PVC pipe.

The ends of the rubrail are trimmed, the edges rounded with a grinder and the rubrail is generously coated with epoxy.

The hull is now ready for the outside fiberglass work.

Flip the hull over.

Next Page ->