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Start :: Assemble pieces and jig :: Stitching the hull :: Fiberglass outside of hull :: Fairing and priming the outside of the hull :: Building the inside :: Final finishing

Stitching the hull

Position your bottom panels on the jig. Use only a few dry wall screws To hold the panels in position on the molds.

Stitching tips. When installing the hull panels on the molds, give priority to fairness. Let the plywood take it's shape naturally. Your panels should be fair and symmetrical (no flat spots or dimples).

Here are a few tricks we have found to getting the hull shaped perfectly in little time:

Use as few drywall screws as possible (near the keel and transom is the only place we used them)

Use small nails or dowels as spacers to keep the correct gap and angle between panels.

Do not over tighten or tighten all of one side first, rather start with all the stitches loose and work your way forward.

For the FS12 (and all other planing hulls) the last few feet of the hull are flat, no hook or hog.

See your building notes for pictures of hook and hog.

Its easy to fix the shape now by re-stitching. Fixing it later will require filling and sanding.

Use only the number of stitches you need to get the fair shape. We used more than necessary on this FS12. Stitches will be more tightly spaced as you make your way to the bow.

Pre-coat the spots between stitches with epoxy. "Tack Weld" the panels with thickened epoxy. This mixture epoxy/wood flour should be more thick than what you made for glue (lets say "peanut butter").

Use a plastic bag with the corner cut off to dispense a nice even bead of the fillet mix into the gap between panels. When the tack welds have cured, remove stitches and fill the gaps with more epoxy putty.

With all the epoxy putty cured (or at least hard) use a plane, sure form, or sandpaper to round the edges. In this picture you can see the starboard side and keel have been rounded off, the port side seam and bow have not.

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