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Seacraft Rebuild

by Joel Shine



This tutorial will offer an overview of the rebuild of a 23' SeaCraft. It is not intended to be an exact recipe to follow for any other boat, only a description of the processes, materials, and techniques used to rebuild a boat. To get specific and individual help on your boat project , visit our forum where we offer free technical support for our customers. Over the years we have hundreds of customers who have successfully rebuilt boats, and made structural repairs using the technical support of our forum.

There are many more pictures (close to 600) and details of this rebuild project at this thread on our message board...

The beginning:

Pictures of the hull as bought. She was previously painted, but it was not a very good job (orange peel) so we will repaint at the end

The 1.5" transom core is borderline for a boat capable of holding twin 150's (not that Im going to do that). Decided to add some thickness to the core before adding the inside transom skin, will use another layer of 3/4" fir. Problem: previous guy had already glassed on the transom cap so I cant get a full sheet in there, so had to cut it in half. There will be another "butt block piece that goes over this layer.

Started by making a template of the transom, which will be used again later for cutting glass

Cut the plywood to shape. Dry fit everything to make sure we had a flush fit. Pre-coat the wood and the transom surface with un-thickened epoxy, let it tack up. We gave the transom surface a good sanding and wipe down to be sure it was clean.

To bed the core into the transom, we went with temporary screws to clamp. Pilot holes drilled so the screws would line up with the glue on. Glue is applied to wood surface, then the screws pull the plywood down to the transom. Start tightening the screw from the center out, you will hear/see the epoxy squeezing out the side. Dont squeeze any more than it takes to start seeing epoxy coming out the sides. With epoxy you want to keep the glue in the joint. We made sure we had an even distribution of glue by using a notched spreader.

when the previous owner built up the stringers, he also made them wider in the rear. Below is a shot of an original 23 seacraft box stringer. I like whats been done, but it needs more glass, which we will add after we build the transom. BTW, the screws are not coated with anything, they have fine threads and only go 1/4" into the substrate, they come out easy especially if you remove them in 24 hrs or less.

tabbing in the last layer of plywood core. We use three layers of 12 oz biax tape. First step was to fill the gaps around the core with epoxy/woodflour/silica mix, we try to fill it flush so that when we come back with a fillet, we will have a consistent angle to work with. The three layers of tape were all done at once over a still tacky fillet (wet on wet)

We started cutting the glass out for the new inside skin. We will build up to 3/16". Each layer will over lap the previous. This first layer is 1810 biax, its on the heavy side for use with epoxy, but we had a few yards of scrap that I wanted to get rid of. The rest of the layers will be 1708, which is easier to wet out. We used the transom template (same one from before) and trace out the shape of the core, then add 4" all around (next layer we will add 6" and so on). Cut the corners so the glass will make the fold.

New inside skin: 2 layers of 1810 plus 1 layer 17 oz. for a total of 73 oz of glass. We still need two more layers of 1708 or 1810 to have a final thickness of about 1/4"

We have to wet the mat side of the 1810 on a table, then transfer to the boat on rolls. After its in the boat, we we use spreader to place it, then add more epoxy to fully wet it out.

wetting out matt side

Rolled Up

placed on transom

wet out

2 layers 1810 and 1 layer 17oz

reinforcing stringers (building thickness to 3/16" minimum everywhere). what you see on the stringers in these shots is 3 layers of 1810, all wet on wet. Will do other side this afternoon. I am going to add a couple layers of tabbing also (stringers to hull).

Added tabbing of two layer 1708 added all around the transom.

Center stringer/drain put in. This is light 4" drain field PVC, covered with 3 layers 1708.

glassed in:

fillet putty:

Tanks arrived. Two 55 gallon belly tanks. These sit between the stringers. Positioned with at least 1.5" clearance all around to give space for foam. Epoxied mounting blocks to side of stringers. With tanks located, we made frames and glassed them in. Tanks get two heavy coats of coal tar epoxy

two of the three frames.

tanks are sanded with 80 grit immediately before the epoxy coating. Aluminum oxidizes so fast that you have maybe 20 minutes to get the epoxy on and have a good bond.

Chase tubes:

With the additional glass covering the stringers I no longer have the room to fit in a 2.5" tube in the stringer notches. It was close, but could not get the sweep position where I want using regular PVC. Decided to try 2" flexible electrical conduit for the side chases. Fits very nice. Two chases down the center along with these two 2" down the side.

dual pick ups on both tanks (in case the boat ever gets twin engines) located at rear of tank along with electric senders. Tanks mounted at slight down angle for drainage. The tanks are bolted to pieces of 3/4” fir plywood which were epoxied to the sides of the stringers, then it was all covered with fiberglass