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Plan updates

Errata, modifications and added features for plans since they were sold. All plan sets sold after the changes are published here include the changes.

Power boats, under 16' - click to open/close panel

GV11 Plans Update

Optional angled transom.
Some people have asked for an angled transom option for the GV11 - here are the revised transom and transom gusset dimensions.

For all plans shipped before May 5th, 2003

FS12 and FS14 stringers

Bottom panel butt block interferes with stringers. To notch or not?

The FS12 and FS14 hull panels are assembled with butt blocks. The butt blocks are located strategically between the mid seat frames. This makes them invisible.
On the bottom side, there is a pair of stringers that push against the bottom and we do not show a notch over the butt block.
That small 1/4" (6 mm) gap is well within our tolerance and will be filled with the fillet putty later.
It is not necessary to notch the stringer at the butt block location. You can notch the stringer if you want but it is not required.
The building notes of plans shipped after October 1st 2006 will mention that interference and the option to notch the stringers.


FS14 dimensions

On sheet B276/4, there was a confusing dimension in the middle of the bottom panel.

The dimension 646 mm or 25-3/8" is measured along the edge of the plywood panel.
This is the dimension just under the 610 Typical or 24" Typical.
The dimension line was offset, this is standard drafting practice but confused some builders. We moved the dimension line over the line showing the plywood edge and all plans shipped after October 1st 2006 show it on that line.


OB15 dimensions

Revision after 15 years . . .
One of our builders brought the following to our attention:
- a small kink in the side panel
- a wrong location for the motorwell bulkhead.

Most builders will not notice any problem. They will fair the small kink with the batten and if they use the motorwell sides on the jig, as we state in the building notes, they will not need that location.
That is probably why we never heard of the dimensions mistakes.
However, the plans must be correct and here are the revisions.

For all plans sold before September 5th 2008:
- on drawing D107/6, side panel dimensions, the last one towards the bow before the tip should be 5" (126 mm), not 5-3/8".
- on drawing D107/5, motorwell location, distance from the transom is 20" (510 mm) not 2' 2". Note that that distance is given again on D107/3 and there it was correct. And again, try not to use that dimension, use the motorwell sides as we write in the building notes.
You can't go wrong that way.

If you did build your OB15 on a jig as we specify and if you used a fairing batten, everything was perfectly correct.

PH15 Plans Update

For all plans received before June 2004.
Please read the bottom panel dimensions carefully. See drawing below.

In the Building Notes there is a mold between frames A & B.
We forgot to include the dimension of the mold in the first few set of plans.
The mold is important to produce the correct hull shape. See below for the dimensions and the location.

Power boats, 16' and over- click to open/close panel

FS17 - Fiberglass

Building notes typo:

Jan. 2017
tape 6 oz. 12" wide should be 12 oz. 6".
Stringers tabbing: 2 layers tape each side, not one.
Added a new drawing titled "Fiberglass" to show lamination schedule.


All pontoon style power cats: EC24, PC20, PC22, PC24

The builder of an extra wide version of the PC24 reports that deck feel flimsy.

We added a drawing showing small deck stringers that can be added to the structure before installing the deck. This drawing has been mailed to all who bought the plans before February 17 2015. Plans are updated and include the new drawing.



Mangusta Plans Update

A motorwell side dimension was missing from the plans.

The transom dimension was correct but confusing.

For all plans shipped before October 6th, 2002


C21 Fiberglass Lamination Schedule

Several builders have expressed the wish to install larger engines than what we specify on the C21. In that case, we recommend to add one extra layer of biaxial fiberglass on the bottom and transom, outside skin only.
This option does not produce a major change in weight or cost and becomes our standard lamination schedule starting December 18th 2003.

New Option for the XF20

The XF20 is now available with an optional sole.
This option requires 4 more sheets of plywood and some extra resin and fiberglass but results in a stronger hull. It also eliminates the risk of tripping over the stringers while fishing. The plans for the sole are included in the price of the plans. Those who purchased the plans can receive a free PDF update on request. Please email

How to Modify a Transom and Outboard Motorwell to Accept Twin Engines

This change applies to all our plans for outboard boats that use engines between 75 and 250 HP.
Our motorwell dimensions are based on the ABYC standards and can accommodate all outboard engines manufactured after 1980. They show sufficient room for rigging and complete tilting. To adapt our plans for the installation of twin outboard engines instead of a single engine, only one dimension changes: the width of the motorwell. For a single engine, the standard width is 30" (75 cm), for twin engines it is 60" (150 cm). All other dimensions are identical. Beware of the engine bolts location: check for interference with stringers.

GF18 Plans Update

For all plans shipped before May 22nd, 2003
Check dimensions of Motorwell Sides and Transom Locker for the Center Console Version on all plans shipped between March 1st, 2003 and May 22nd, 2003.

For all plans shipped before May 22nd, 2003

DE23 and NV23 Plans Update

Missing skeg information
In both sets of plans on page 3 there is a note about the skeg that is missing: "Skeg = 1-1/2" thick, from two layers of hardwood epoxy laminated."
For all plans shipped before April 24th, 2003

CS25 Update

Dimension updates.
There were a couple of dimensins missing from the chine panel on page E248/6.
On the second piece of the chine panel:

On the third piece of the chine panel:

Also, on page E248/4, the camber for Station A was not postioned in the corret spot. It should be from the 4 1/2" step to the sheer line. Which makes the camber 1 1/8" [29]

LB26 transom mold

We forgot to include the drawing with the dimensions for the transom mold in some plans packages shipped before June 6th 2007.
If your set of plans does not include a small drawing title A238/12, Transom Mold, please email and we will send you a PDF file of that page.

FS17 - missing dimensions

Some dimensions for the bow mold are missing.

Some dimensions for the bow mold are missing from plans shipped before July 7th 2007.
Sheet 284/4.
Bow mold: the height of the chine intersection is 12-5/8" (332 mm)
The baseline is at 3" (78 mm) above the lowest point.
That one is not really needed but can be used to check other dimensions.
On the transom drawing, the half width of the cut is 16" (406 mm)
It shows somewhere else too.


CS25 Plans Update - (Closed Transom)

Motorwell dimension
Page B248/2_CT
The motorwell side was incorrect.
Here is the corrected drawing.

Also, the profile on the same page should look as follows:

For all plans shipped before March 23rd, 2004

DE23, closed transom

New version available: DE23 with a closed transom.
For bracket installation. This new version is included in the plans starting August 10th 2004. It frees a lot of room in the cockpit.

CS25 Closed Transom Update

The CS25 closed transom requires an extra frame. That frame is shown on B248/2_CT and used in addition to frame H. It does not replace frame H.
Dimensions and location for that frame are correct as show on B248/2_CT but the frame should be named frame I, not frame H.

TW28 Update

The building notes state that the transom mold is located at station I but the plans show the mold further back.

The plans are correct, they show the proper location of the transom mold. Please disregard the text on page 4 of the building notes. This has been corrected today.

XF20 Scantlings Update

Considering the way our builders use their XF20, we increased the scantlings for the bottom and framing.
For the bottom panel, we now use 1708 instead of 12 oz. biaxial 45/45. Same number of layers but an option for "oyster bed crushers" is now listed: one extra layer of 1708 outside.
For the frames, seat tops and casting deck use one layer each side of biaxial as opposed to what is specified on the old plans. All plans printed after August 2005 list the new scantlings.

The boat was sufficiently stiff and strong as designed but the extra layers will provide more resistance to abrasion and groundings.

Panga Update PG20 & PG22

There were a couple of notes missing on the plans:
D266/3 Construction
Note 13. Keel suggested dimension: 1" X 1" (25 X 25mm), approximately 145" (3,68m) long starting 18" (46 cm) from the transom.
B266/7 Details
Suggested sprayrail 1" wide.

D267/3 Construction
Note 13. Keel suggested dimension: 1" X 1" (25 X 25mm), approximately 180" (4,57m) long starting 18" (46 cm) from the transom.
B267/7 Details
Suggested sprayrail 1" wide.

PH22 stringers

The stringers are deliberately cut 1/2" too low.
This will save you grinding work after the inside fiberglass. During the jig assembly, raise the stringers with small wedges to be flush with the frames bottom side.
(The text above was added to the building notes January 30th 2207)

FS18, missing dimension

A dimension was missing for frame A.
Using our assembly method, there was a dimension missing for frame A: the height of the deck.
That dimension is 2-3/8" below the sheer.

FS18 sole

The first sets of plans did not show the sole in the nesting drawing.
The sole got lost! It was missing from the nesting and the plywood BOM.
The new BOM requires one more sheet of 1/4" plywood.
Here is a picture of nesting drawing with the extra plywood sheet:

and here is a larger view of it:

We added some text to the building notes, page 10:
- Cut the sole parts and check if they fit. Some minor adjustments may be required. The dimensions for the sole are simple: the length is the distance between the frames on which the sole sits, the widths are the widths of the frames spaced like the frames. This gives 4 points and that is sufficient to draw a curve that will fit the sides. Check against the hull before cutting: some minor differences may appear at this stage.
- The sole is made from two pieces of 1/4? plywood joined by a 6? wide butt block. The butt block fits between two frames but must be notched to avoid interference with the stringers. The builder can also use butt blocks in 3 pieces that fit between the stringers.
- We show a 1/4? sole which is sufficient if you fill space under the sole with foam.
If you do not fill that space with foam, either use 3/8? plywood for the sole or cover the sole on each side with a layer of fiberglass fabric.
If you choose to use 3/8, it will require 1.5 more sheets of 3/8? plywood. If you fiberglass the sole, you will need 7 more yards of wide fabric: total 20 yards. Foam is the best choice.

P19 - Upper topside panel

The P19 drawing showing the side panels has been changed.

The P19 topsides are made of two overlapping panels, just like the C19, C21, HM19 and many other designs.
The dimensions for the upper part of the topside were given from the sheer edge to the intersection with the lower panel instead of showing the full panel.
Some builders have automatically extended the upper panel by the 6" mentioned in the building notes and this resulted in overlapping panels with a nice style line, just as designed.
Others have butted the panels and added a spray rail. While this is still sufficiently strong, the correct way to build the boat is with overlapping panels.
The plans were revised and show an upper panel extended by 6".
If you purchased a set of P19 plans before March 23rd 2007, please email and we will send you a revised drawing D246_7_US or D246_7_metric free of charge.


LB26 station names

There is a discrepancy between the station names on the large blueprints and the small offset drawings.

The stations numbers on the large drawings (lines, construction etc.) correspond to the ones marked + on the small drawings with dimensions.
For example, the station marked 0 on the large drawing is named 0+ in the small drawing.
This is unimportant while building the jig but can be confusing if the builder uses the station names to locate the bulkheads.

PG22 stringers errata

All plans for the PG22 shipped before June 7th 2006 show the wrong stringer.
Some plans for the Panga 22 show the stringer of the PG20.
This error has been fixed on June 6th 2006.

The error is on sheet 265_6. The correct stringer is 5-3/8" or 136 mm high at the transom side. If your plan show a smaller dimension, please update by downloading a PDF file with the correct dimensions. The corrected dimensions are available here: PG22 stringer PDF file.

LB22 notch in clamping board

For all plans sold before September 2006, please disregard the dimensions for the clamping board notch in the stringer. This is on drawing E234/6.
Cut as shown,that notch is too larger and leaves a 3/4" to 1" gap. This has absolutely no influence on the structure but confuses builders during the assembly. The dimension has been replaced with a note: "Cut notch to fit over clamping board". The dimensions for the transom and clamping board were always correct.

C19 Text Update

Page 3: The names of the stringers: The one on the left should be named outboard stringer, 10" from CL. The other one should be outboard stringer, 20" from CL.
Page 7: Nesting - The nesting drawing should show the layout with an offset seam. On the second set of stringers, simply slide the inboard stringer forward so the forward tip touches the edge of the plywood.

Sail boats, day boats - click to open/close panel

CK17 Plans Update

There were wrong dimensions on drawing 213/4.
The profile view was scaled by 1.3 and all frame locations were wrong.
Please email the order desk or to receive a PDF file with the corrected dimensions.


C12 Plans Update

The dimensions were updated for the centerboard and daggerboard trunk.
US units:



AR15 Nesting Update

For plans before February 2004, small nesting improvement.
In previous plans the seat sides were not nested properly. There is no change in the dimensions.
The scetch below shows the updated nesting.

CK17 Nesting Update

A new nesting drawing is available for this boat. A thicker bottom is shown and it saves one sheet of 1/2" plywood compared to the old nesting drawing. All owners of CK17 plans can receive a free upgrade as a PDF file. Email

CR13 Update

There were a couple of dimensions missing on the plans:

The distance from the bottom of the mast to the shroud attachement point is 172" [4369 mm].
The distance from the deck to the booom attachement point on the mast is 15 1/2" [394mm].
The distance from the center of the mast at the deck to the fairlead attachment on the deck is 36" [915 mm].

CV16 Performance Sail Plan

All CV16 plans will now include 2 sail plans.
Along with the standard sail plan, the plans will now include a performance sail plan.
For those of you who have already bought the plans, you can email to and we will send you a .PDF.

Centerboard Painter (Lifting System)

How to install an efficient CB painter.
For small boat centerboards, two holes and a stopper knot are all that is needed. See the HowTo in our Tutorials Section
The complete article is in the HowTo and Tutorials Section, General Building Questions / Sail Boats category.

Sail boats, cruising boats - click to open/close panel

AD14 & AD16 Sail Plan Update

D264/11 Sail Plan - Al. Mast
The distance from the top of the mast to the shroud attachment point is 62 3/4" [1595 mm].  The gooseneck height above the deck is 18 1/2" [471 mm].
D264/11 Chinese Lug Sail
The distance from the top of the mast to the shroud attachment point is 24 1/2" [622 mm]. 
D268/11 Sail Plan - Al. Mast
The distance from the top of the mast to the shroud attachment point is 63 7/8" [1622 mm].  The gooseneck height above the deck is 18" [457 mm].
D268/11 Chinese Lug Sail
The distance from the top of the mast to the shroud attachment point is 11 5/8" [296 mm].

AD14 & AD16 Rudder Dimension Update

Clarification about dimensions
There were a couple of dimensions missing for the rudder:

VG18 Update

There were a couple of dimensions missing on the plans shipped before 08/22/05.

VG23 Plans Update

Some builders have reported that there are some dimensions missing on their set of plans.  If you are missing the dimensions for the chine to centerline on the stations drawing please email and we will send you those dimensions.

VG23 Update

The plans did not show the cockpit drains and their dimensions:
We suggest 3" [76] radius.

Also, the location and size of the longitudinal roof framing was not clear.
They are 1" X 2" [25 X 51] on edge and 14 3/4" [375] from centerline.

VG23 offshore

The VG23 is offshore capable but for those who want more, we designed some options that improve ocean going capability.
The VG23 is offshore capable but for those who want more, we designed some options that improve ocean going capability.

First, cockpit size is reduced. Forward, a bridge deck puts some distance between the cockpit and the companion way. On the stern side, the transom moves forward and the part behind it becomes a skirt. The smaller cockpit volume is an important safety factor in bad weather.

The rudder moves forward on the new transom and rotates in a slot just like in the VG20.
The rudder gets better support and is will give better control in it's new location. It can move up and down for shallow water sailing. The skeg became slightly larger for better tracking.
The split backstay is connected to chainnplates mounted on the new transom.
The backstay moves to the new transom. This will limit the amount of roach in the main but that is perfect for long distance sailing.

Right click to download a PDF file with dimensions and notes.

VG26 - station H CL shifted

There was a mistake on a station.
Drawing D272/5, station H.
The widths are wrong because the centerline shifted on the drawing.
At the sheer, it was 1269 mm and should be 1292 (50-7/8")
At chine, it was 1121 but should be 1144 (45")
At bottom, it was 495 but should be 518 (20-3/8").
All other dimensions are correct.

If you already cut the frame, it will be too narrow. This can easily be fixed by adding a 20 mm wide batten all around or use a 20 mm thick foam pad around the frame.

Small boats - click to open/close panel

V12 Update

Dagger board trunk - Jan. 2017
Removed redundant dimensions from daggerboard trunk.
Edited building notes to show better trunk installation method.


PY12 Update

PY12 plans updates:


Plans shipped before September 15 2012 show wrong dimensions for the bottom panel. All builders should have received a PDF file with the correct dimensions. How to check: on drawing B296/3, the last dimension for the bottom half should read 23" (584 mm).


The updates below are optional but recommended.


Side deck knee:
We recommend to add a knee under the side deck, in the middle of the cockpit. If a heavy person sits on that side while entering or exiting the boat, that side may fail. No failures were reported but it is a small addition, easy to install. The knee should be about halfway between the cockpit frames: 28-3/8" (720 mm) from each frame.


The outline of the knee is identical to the center frame and the keen is about 6' along the side. Exact shape is TBP.


Sealed compartment venting: If some of your compartments are completely sealed, for example the volume between the cockpit frames and the ends, strong sudden temperature variations may cause the panels to oil can or even some seams to fail. A simple small 1/4" hole at the top is sufficient as a vent but to drain that same compartment, you can use either a standard boat drain plug or use an inspection plate. The inspection plate has the advantage of providing access to the compartment for dry storage. An excellent vent is a Gore Tex plug. Gore Tex keeps the water out but breathes. You can make your own but for $ 12.00, you can get the Greenlight vented leash plug. It doubles as a leash attachment. See


N7 Update

How to use a baseline to draw the panels.
The dimensions for the base line are as follows:
The right side: 13 3/8" [340mm]
The left side: 34 7/8" [886mm]
All dimensions based on a standard sheet of 4' X 8" [122 X 244] plywood.


Hiawatha Update

Update November 8th 2005: We have updated the plans to show less rocker and sligthly lowered the lower chine. The redesigned Hiawathas are now more general purpose canoes with better stability and better tracking.

HC14 Plans Update

The side panel got shifted on the nesting and expanded plate drawing.
Here are the new dimensions:

And the new mold locations:


Chenoa 14 - side panel

The dimensions for the Chenoa 14 are wrong on some plans. Here are the correct dimensions.
The wrong dimensions produce a larger panel. If the boat is not assembled, cut the panel down please.
Note that it is possible to assemble the boat with the wrong panel but it looks better if cut as below.


There has been a change in the BOM for the FL14

BOM change
We have eliminated the 1/4" option for the bottom panel.
Here is the nesting of the parts on 1/4" and 3/8".
It requires 2 sheets of 1/4" and 4 sheets of 3/8"


Otter 16 - Errata

There is a panel label mistake and confusing dimensions on the Otter plans.

For all plans shipped before September 26th 2006.
On the hull panels drawing, the labels "chine panel" and "topside panel" are inverted. The panel at the top is the topside panel.
It was impossible to make an assembly mistake because the panels would not fit but it confused at least one builder.
The dimensions for the bottom panel were shown in a weird way. The bottom panel is symmetrical and instead of measuring from a center line, dimensions were given for the two sides! Plus, the 2nd last point towards the bow on the upper side was off by 1/2". The dimension for the same point on the lower side was correct.
All this as been revised.


New and better fiberglass tape

Biaxial tape 6 oz. is now available in our small boat kits and online store (
It is stronger than the 9 oz. woven tape, easier to apply, and solves the problem of the protruding edges.
New biaxial tape.
We introduced the concept of structural taped seams more than 10 years ago and from the start, we recommended the use of biaxial tape for those seams.
There are two advantages to the use of biaxial tape: stronger easier to apply.
The superior strength is easy to understand. If one uses plain woven glass tape with fibers running at 0 and 90 degrees, half of the fibers run parallel to the seam and don't do much while the fibers perpendicular to the seam are at the worse angle to resist shear loads. Biaxial tape does a much better job: all fibers are put to work and resistance to shear is optimum: There are other advantages:

  1. At equal weight, biaxial fabric is stronger than woven tape. In biaxial, all the fibers run straight but woven fibers are intertwined. This produces a difference of around 20% in tensile strength along the fibers.
  2. The radius taken by the fibers is much larger. This means easier application, no air bubbles, no fighting to get the tape down in the resin
  3. Woven tape is sold with stitched edges. Those edges create a ridge and this means more fairing work. Biaxial tape has loose edges that blend smoothly in to the adjacent surface.
In all our designs, wherever possible, we specify biaxial tape for structural seams but this was a problem for small boats.
Ideally, we need a biaxial tape of around 6 oz.
Until now, the lightest biaxial tape easily available was 12 oz. This was unnecessarily heavy and we specified woven tape 9 oz. instead.
While not perfect, the 9 oz. woven tape was the closest in performance to our requirements and that is what we show in our BOM's for small boats.
Stitch and glue is not a big market for fiberglass mills and for years, they did not offer this tape but after some research and negotiations, we found a supplier that accepted to produce our ideal biaxial tape for small boats.
Biaxial tape 6 oz. is now available in our small boat kits and online store ( 6 oz. Biaxial tape is stronger than the 9 oz. woven tape, easier to apply, and solves the problem of the protruding edges. The first shipment arrived yesterday and starting next week, we will update all BOM's and kits in which we specified the 9 oz. tape. For those who can't order their supplies from us, we recommend to keep using the 9 oz. woven tape.
Our specs will show the biaxial tape 6 oz. as the specified material with the 9 oz. woven listed as an acceptable substitute.